The first tunnel underneath Victoria Harbour was only opened in 1972. The Eastern Crossing was added in 1989, the Western Crossing opened in 1997. For most of Hong Kong’s history, people have been commuting by ferries between the various office and residential centers around Hong Kong. Many of these ferry lines still exist and are delight to take. Some of these lines continue to be popular with locals and tourists, such as the Star Ferry, while others only have a small following to keep them afloat.

Thanks to the revival of one line discontinued in March 2011, it is possible to zigzag forth and back Victoria harbour in almost its entirety from Central to Lei Yue Mun in the east since June 2020. To maximize our pleasure ferrying between the stunning city scape, we will being our journey in Wan Chai:

1) Wan Chai -> Tsim Sha Tsui
Service time: 7:30-23:00 Schedule
Cost: From HK$2.7
The Star Ferry’s second and less popular line takes us from the new ferry terminal near Wan Chai Convention Center to the Star Ferry in Tsim Sha Tsui. Be sure to check out the nice sun roof on the Wan Chai peer if you have a few minutes! On its northbound journey, but only during evening rush hour, this ferry can also be boarded on its lower deck.

2) Tsim Sha Tsui -> Central
Service time: 6:30-23:30 Schedule
Cost: From HK$2.2
This second leg is also the shortest of the entire trip. The incredibly popular journey has for years topped Tripadvisor’s list of most popular things to do in Hong Kong.

View through the front of the lower deck of the Tsim Sha Tsui – Wan Chai Star Ferry

3) Central -> Hung Hom
Service Time: 7:30-19:00 Schedule
The Central to Hung Hom Star Ferry was discontinued in 2011, but was revived in June 2020. It leaves from pier 8 in Central and costs HK$9. It takes 16 minutes and is served by the little-known Fortune Ferry Company (now owned by CKS) at least once per hour.

4) Hung Hom -> North Point
Service Time: 7:00-19:00 Schedule
Cost: HK$7.5
This ferry goes about twice per hour, more often during peak times.

5) North Point -> Kwun Tong
Service Time: 7:00-19:30 Schedule
Cost: HK$7
The Fortune Ferries Company also serves this route about twice per hour. Depending on the time of the day, your ferry might make a stopover at the Kai Tak cruise ship terminal.

6) Kwun Tong -> Sai Wan Ho
Service Time: 7:00-21:00 Schedule
Cost: HK$9
The Coral Sea Ferry operates three routes, two of which on our itinerary. It’s about a 15min journey to Sai Wan Ho on Hong Kong island.

7) Sai Wan Ho -> Sam Ka Tsuen
Service Time: 7:00-22:30 Schedule
Cost: HK$9
The last ferry of the day will take us to Sam Ka Tsuen, a wonderful little fishing village at Lei Yue Mun overlooking Victoria Harbour. It is today mainly known for its many seafood restaurants.

Closing the gap
In 2018 the Hong Kong government approved a concept to revive some other older ferry services across Victoria Harbour, primarily targeting tourists. These ‘water taxis’, resembling the old Walla Walla 嘩啦嘩啦 ferry, might enter service in 2020 or ’21. They would allow to extend the Victoria Harbour Ferry Zigzag to West Kowloon or at least open up the possibility to travel between Hung Hom and Kowloon City.